Not my usual



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This isn’t my usual line of work but it was an interesting job and i wanted to share it with everyone bacause I think this bike looks amazing now.

The frame was in a bit of a mess, I gave it all a light rub down and a clean before applying over 1100 individual Spiderman stickers. I cut the stickers into the edges as I would wallpaper. The yellow bits on the bikes frame are original and were on the bike before, I left them untouched, cutting the stickers into them. Once the entire frame was covered I used a waterproof pva to coat all the stickers and keep them all held down. To seal the stickers and protect them from the weather I applied three coats of Dulux Trade yacht varnish, being careful to ensure I sealed the stickers all over completely.

So if anyone else wants a Spiderman bike you know where to come 😉



Natural wood finishes

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The existing varnish was cracking and peeling, it can’t be rubbed down and simply recoated when it’s like this, to get a nice even finish again the wood needs to be stripped back to bare. I used nitro mors to remove the existing coats of varnish then gave the door a thorough rub down.

I used a Cuprinol wood filler matched to the colour of the wood to fill any blemishes before applying the first coat of Dulux Trade ultimate woodstain. The first coat raises the grain of the wood so between coats a light rub down was needed, I used a fine grade paper, 240grit to buff the wood before finishing with the second coat.

Paper hanging

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This was a lovely house to work in and a lovely family to work around. The man in this house would make me a hot sandwich for lunch and if he was out he would bring me back pie’n mash 😊 it dont get better than that.

Before any paper could be hung the rest of the decorating needed completed.

The ceilings and walls were rubbed down all over removing any lumps’n bumps, any cracks were opened up and raked out to allow filler to get right into the cracks rather than simply filling over the top of them, which wouldn’t last 5 minutes before cracking again. I used a gyproc filler to fill and skim any defects to the plaster work. I used a white Dulux Trade vinyl matt to paint the ceilings, a thinned down first coat to seal the filler followed by two full coats.

I used the thinned out white emulsion to seal the filler to the walls below the dado aswel. To finish the lower walls I applied two coats of Little Greene intelligent matt emulsion

The dado, skirtings and door frames were thoroughly rubbed down, any defects were filled using Ronseals two pack wood filler and any bare wood and filler was touched up with a dulux trade wood primer before finishing with two coats of Dulux Trade oil eggshell, lightly buffed up between coats. The eggshell its self is self undercoating so there’s no need for an undercoat unless your finishing bare wood or unless a lot of preparation has been necessary.

The doors were rubbed down and finished with Danish oil buffed into the wood with a lint free cloth.

With all the painting out the way I could begin papering. The paper was supplied by a company called . Before papering I mixed up a Solvite paste and used it to size/coat the walls that were to be papered, sealing the wall, creating even porosity all over so the paper will move around easily while I’m hanging it. When hanging the paper I used a tub paste, tub pastes are a lot stronger than solvite pastes and are usually required for sticking finish papers. With the paper hung it was job complete.

Edwardian interior













Before any painting could take place and before any papers were hung a lot of preparation was needed. Any old wallpapers were stripped and the ceilings and walls throughout the house were rubbed down and filled using a gyproc plaster based filler.

All the ceilings were finished with two coats of white Dulux trade vinyl matt, the walls throughout were finished with two coats of Little Greene intelligent matt emulsion.

The woodwork was thoroughly rubbed down, filled using two pack wood filler and caulked where necessary. I finished the woodwork with two coats of Dulux trade oil eggshell, giving a fine rub down between coats. All the bare wood was rubbed down and finished with Danish oil buffed in with a lint free cloth.

Once all the painting was complete the wallpapers could be hung, the papers were from Harlequin. A few were wide vinyls, with this type of paper the paste is applied to the wall rather than the paper. I used a solvite tub paste to stick the papers because it’s a lot stronger than cellulose paste which you mix yourself.

Stone and brick restoration










The bricks surrounding the porch and the top brick arch had at some point in the past been painted a tile red colour, not a suitable colour match for the old red bricks. I removed the old pointing using a hammer and bolster and then cleaned the bricks to remove all traces of the red paint revealing the original colour of the brick. To finish I washed out the joints between the bricks before using a lime mortar to point up, the pointing was left with a flush finish original to the house, the flush finish also has greater longevity.

The stone work needed scraped off and rubbed down to remove all the loose paint and debris before using a stabiliser to seal any bare stone. The bottom bay had no paint left on it and hadn’t been decorated for over 40 years.
I used a specialist masonry repair filler called toupretlith to fill, skim and shape up any damaged areas. In some areas the stone had totally failed and had crumbled away, I mixed a mortar to build up any damaged areas such as the sill before using the toupretlith to finish.
Where stone work and brick work meet I took extra care filling and shaping the edges of the stone to ensure a sharp line when it comes to painting.
All the stone work was completely rubbed down before finishing with two coats of white Dulux trade all seasons masonry paint.

Patch rendering






The stucco was failing and had blown in various areas. With a hammer and bolster I banged off all the loose material back down to brick. The satellite dish was in the way so to avoid damaging the dish I had it moved and set it up on the front of the scaffold for the duration of the job. To protect the windows and the front door from falling rubble I covered them using corex while the work took place, taking it down at the end of each day.
I applied a coat of thinned out uni bond to the bricks to seal the dust before repointing any damaged and failing pointing. I applied another coat of uni bond and skimmed over the bricks with sand and cement. To blend the edges of the pre existing stucco with the fresh render I skimmed over the joins with toupretlith and rubbed down the entire wall before using a white dulux trade all seasons masonry paint, thinned down with water to seal all the bare surfaces before finishing with two full coats of dulux trade all seasons masonry paint mixed to the colour of choice.
The porch and the surrounding stone work was scraped off to remove any loose material before filling and skimming any damaged surfaces with toupretlith. I finished the porch using the dulux trade white all seasons masonry paint, I mixed water with the paint to thin the first coat allowing it to soak right into the filler so it can get a firm hold, without miscoating (a thinned out first coat for bare surfaces) bare surfaces the paint will fail and begin flaking and peeling before long. Once the miscoat was dry the stucco was finished wih two full coats.
The pipes and fascia board were rubbed down, undercoated with a dulux trade dark grey undercoat and finished with a coat of dulux trade black exterior gloss.
Once all the work was complete the satellite dish was moved back on to the house, windows cleaned and the scaffold was taken down. Voila!

Victorian bricks, stripped, cleaned and repointed






The bricks had been previously painted. To begin stripping them I started by using a hammer and bolster to bang out the old pointing. Once all the pointing was out the brick faces were stripped using a mix of hand tools and power tools, their is no need for any chemicals to strip and clean the bricks, all you need is elbow grease
With all the paint removed a few of the bricks were shown to be damaged, I mixed a mortar to match the colour of the bricks and used it to repair them.
Once all the repairs were made I used a lime mortar to point up and finished by applying a coat of stabiliser to to the entire front to seal the bricks.

Mirror finish

All the stone work needed scraped off and a thorough rub down to remove any loose paint and debris and to flatten the surface before filling. I used a specialist masonry repair filler called Toupretlith to fill and skim any defects in the stones surface before rubbing down and applying a stabiliser to strengthen the fillers hold on the surface. I spotted up all the filler with a Dulux trade flat masonry paint thinned down with a drop of water to allow the first coat to soak right in and take hold. I finished with two full coats of Dulux trade all seasons masonry gloss.

The gable needed a lot of loose paint scraped off before giving it all a thorough rub down. There were a few small areas of rot which I cut out and treated with a wood hardener, I coated all the bare Wood with the wood hardener to strengthen it before spot priming with a Dulux trade wood primer. Next I applied a coat of Dulux trade weathershield undercoat, filled any defects with two pack wood filler and rubbed down again, I gave it all a second undercoat and finished with a coat of Dulux trade weathershield gloss.

The front door was prepared for painting in the same way as the gable, only being slightly more meticulous. I used finer paper to sand the door and frame. Before finishing I used a 1000grade carbon paper to wet polish the surface in preparation for the final coat of gloss. A mirror finish is best achieved on older doors as all the layers of paint over the last hundred odd years fill the grain of the wood allowing for a smoother surface to be created, however this finish can be achieved on any surface with enough time given to preparation.

Victorian interior

All the woodwork throughout the house needed a thorough rub down before applying the first undercoat, I used a Dulux trade undercoat. After the first coat I filled any defects using ronseals two pack wood filler and rubbed down again before caulking any gaps and applying a second undercoat.

At this stage I began to focus on the plaster work, I rubbed down the entire house and opened up any cracks before filling, a few joints across the front room ceiling were quite bad, I taped and jointed these cracks to prevent them recurring. Once all the ceilings and walls were filled and rubbed down I used a thinned down coat of Dulux trade white vinyl matt emulsion to seal the filler before painting.

The ceilings were finished with two coats of Dulux trade white vinyl matt, the walls throughout the house were also finished using Dulux trade vinyl matt in different colours.

With the walls finished the only thing left was to finish the woodwork. Using Dulux trade high gloss I applied a coat to all the woodwork throughout.

The handrail was stripped back, grain filled, stained and finished with three coats of yacht varnish giving the impression of French polish.

Victorian mid terrace






The stone work needed scraped off and rubbed down to remove all the loose paint and debris. I applied a stabiliser to any bare stone to create a more stable and sound surface before filing. I filled and skimmed any defects using a specialist masonry repair filler called Toupretlith.
To finish I applied two coats of Farrow and ball exterior masonry.
The pipes and fascias were rubbed down before being given a dark grey dulux trade undercoat, they were finished with a Dulux trade black weathershield gloss.

The existing pointing around the red bricks making up the porch was beginning to fail, using a hammer and bolster I banged out the pointing before cleaning the bricks. A few of the red bricks known as red rubbers were crumbling and deteriorating, I used a mortar toner to create a mortar the same colour as the bricks and used it to repair the damaged faces before replacing the pointing.